A pdf of these instructions can be downloaded and printed here. There are no pictures with these instructions.
This fountain is called "The Bowls of Life". I think this project would be considered more of an advanced project, but I
encourage anyone who has made a few other hypertufa pieces to try it. You can always use the bowls as planters if it doesn't
work out well for a fountain.
The fountain is constructed of three bowls in graduating sizes. I believe the fountain works better if the bowls are wider than they
are deeper. This fountain is very heavy, so if you made a smaller version, that would help with the weight issue. I also think it
would look great with square, rectangular or octagon shaped molds.
Your work surface should be smooth and level for this project. We used a simple plywood topped table that was outside. If you
are worried about getting cement on your table, cover the table with plastic (or a vinyl table cloth) or use a large piece of
corrugated plastic or foam board. Tape down the covering to reduce slipping.
Supply List:
- Hypertufa Mix (1:1 ratio)
- Large trough for mixing hypertufa
- Water
- Three molds in graduating sizes
- Duct Tape
- Rubber Gloves for mixing hypertufa
- Latex Gloves for smooth finishing
- Plastic mesh or nylon fibers for reinforcing
- Electric drill with a concrete drill bit (the size of the plastic hose you are using)
- 180 gph re-circulating submersible water pump (fountain pump)
- 6"-10" length of clear flexible plastic hose (may come with pump)
- Scissors or knife to cut tubing to length
- Metal file (optional)
- Sandpaper for wet sanding (optional)
Time: 2-3 hours, plus curing time and about 1 hour of set-up/fine-tuning time.
Step 1 - The Mold
The first step is to find three molds in graduating sizes. The molds we used were 14", 12" and 10". They are actually plastic pots
designed for container gardening. To make the molds easier to release, cut a slit along each side of the pot, leaving the pot
connected at the base. The first time you use the mold, you will need to use a release agent. You can do more research online
about release agents, but I think Vaseline would work well for this project as well as a cooking spray. Once the molds have been
used several times, you no longer need to use a release agent as the molds get seasoned over time. Use duct tape to tape the
sides back together. You are now ready to fill the molds.
Step 2 - Filling the Molds
For this project, we used a hypertufa mix that was half potting mix and half portland cement. Check out my detailed instructions
on mixing hypertufa. You may find that working on a table that is a little lower than counter height is helpful. You can sit when
you are pressing the mix into the molds and then stand to look over the molds to see if they are even and level.
Press the mix into the base of the pot about ½" thick. At this point, you should lay down a piece of plastic mesh to help reinforce
the base. A 3" x 4" piece of plastic webbed snow fencing, garden fencing or a piece cut out of a plastic berry basket would work
as the mesh. Add more hypertufa mix to the base until it is about an inch thick and the mesh is covered. At this point you can
start pressing the mix onto the sides of the bowl, again to about an inch thick. Fill the mold to the top of the largest mold and the
middle sized mold. Press the hypertufa mix with your thumbs and the palms of your hand to get a nice smooth finish. To get a
nice flat edge on top, use the palm of your hand and glide it along the top edge of the bowl until you get the effect you are looking
for. It's best to wear a thinner glove for this step, such as latex. Look the bowls over and adjust any spots that seem too thick
and make sure the bottom of the bowl is level. You may want to wait until all your bowls are filled before switching to a latex
glove for smoothing the edges. Latex gloves tend to tear during the mixing and pressing process.
The middle bowl needs to have a pedestal in the center for the smallest bowl to sit on. To do that, take some hypertufa and form
it into an oblong ball in your hand and press it to the center of the bowl forming it into a mountain shape (slightly wider at the
bottom than the top), making the top flat. The height of the pedestal should be 2"-3" below the top edge of the bowl. You can
use the palm of your hand to help flatten/level the top or a small piece of wood will do the same thing.
When you are ready to fill the smallest pot, do not fill it all the way to the top as you did the larger bowls. Instead, stop the mix an
inch below the mold's edge. Flatten the top with your palm as you did the other two bowls. Once you have made sure the base
and sides are even, you need to make a pedestal and cup in the center of the smallest bowl.
Step 3 - The Pedestal and Cup
This pedestal will hold the top piece that the tube of water will bubble out of. The pedestal should be as tall as the finished bowl
and almost as wide as the cup that will sit on top. This is to go in the smallest bowl that you have made. To form the pedestal, do
as you did for the medium sized bowl and take a handful of hypertufa mix and form a mound in the center of your smallest bowl
sort of shaping it like a mountain (slightly wider on the bottom than the top). I like to roll the mix in my hand so it is smooth and
nice and tight, then sit it in the center of the bowl and smooth it with your hands until you get the desired shape. To form the cup
that sits on top, roll some hypertufa mix in your hand to form a ball, and then begin to flatten it on the table. Once you have
reached the desired size, take your thumbs and begin to form the inside of the bowl. It doesn't need to be real deep, just enough
so the water has something to bubble in and over when the pump is turned on. The finished cup and pedestal should be a little
taller than the mold. How tall, is up to you, but I'd say no taller than an inch above the mold.
This fountain is called "The Bowls of Life". I think this project would be considered more of an advanced project, but I
encourage anyone who has made a few other hypertufa pieces to try it. You can always use the bowls as planters if it doesn't
work out well for a fountain.
The fountain is constructed of three bowls in graduating sizes. I believe the fountain works better if the bowls are wider than they
are deeper. This fountain is very heavy, so if you made a smaller version, that would help with the weight issue. I also think it
would look great with square, rectangular or octagon shaped molds.
Your work surface should be smooth and level for this project. We used a simple plywood topped table that was outside. If you
are worried about getting cement on your table, cover the table with plastic (or a vinyl table cloth) or use a large piece of
corrugated plastic or foam board. Tape down the covering to reduce slipping.
Supply List:
- Hypertufa Mix (1:1 ratio)
- Large trough for mixing hypertufa
- Water
- Three molds in graduating sizes
- Duct Tape
- Rubber Gloves for mixing hypertufa
- Latex Gloves for smooth finishing
- Plastic mesh or nylon fibers for reinforcing
- Electric drill with a concrete drill bit (the size of the plastic hose you are using)
- 180 gph re-circulating submersible water pump (fountain pump)
- 6"-10" length of clear flexible plastic hose (may come with pump)
- Scissors or knife to cut tubing to length
- Metal file (optional)
- Sandpaper for wet sanding (optional)
Time: 2-3 hours, plus curing time and about 1 hour of set-up/fine-tuning time.
Step 1 - The Mold
The first step is to find three molds in graduating sizes. The molds we used were 14", 12" and 10". They are actually plastic pots
designed for container gardening. To make the molds easier to release, cut a slit along each side of the pot, leaving the pot
connected at the base. The first time you use the mold, you will need to use a release agent. You can do more research online
about release agents, but I think Vaseline would work well for this project as well as a cooking spray. Once the molds have been
used several times, you no longer need to use a release agent as the molds get seasoned over time. Use duct tape to tape the
sides back together. You are now ready to fill the molds.
Step 2 - Filling the Molds
For this project, we used a hypertufa mix that was half potting mix and half portland cement. Check out my detailed instructions
on mixing hypertufa. You may find that working on a table that is a little lower than counter height is helpful. You can sit when
you are pressing the mix into the molds and then stand to look over the molds to see if they are even and level.
Press the mix into the base of the pot about ½" thick. At this point, you should lay down a piece of plastic mesh to help reinforce
the base. A 3" x 4" piece of plastic webbed snow fencing, garden fencing or a piece cut out of a plastic berry basket would work
as the mesh. Add more hypertufa mix to the base until it is about an inch thick and the mesh is covered. At this point you can
start pressing the mix onto the sides of the bowl, again to about an inch thick. Fill the mold to the top of the largest mold and the
middle sized mold. Press the hypertufa mix with your thumbs and the palms of your hand to get a nice smooth finish. To get a
nice flat edge on top, use the palm of your hand and glide it along the top edge of the bowl until you get the effect you are looking
for. It's best to wear a thinner glove for this step, such as latex. Look the bowls over and adjust any spots that seem too thick
and make sure the bottom of the bowl is level. You may want to wait until all your bowls are filled before switching to a latex
glove for smoothing the edges. Latex gloves tend to tear during the mixing and pressing process.
The middle bowl needs to have a pedestal in the center for the smallest bowl to sit on. To do that, take some hypertufa and form
it into an oblong ball in your hand and press it to the center of the bowl forming it into a mountain shape (slightly wider at the
bottom than the top), making the top flat. The height of the pedestal should be 2"-3" below the top edge of the bowl. You can
use the palm of your hand to help flatten/level the top or a small piece of wood will do the same thing.
When you are ready to fill the smallest pot, do not fill it all the way to the top as you did the larger bowls. Instead, stop the mix an
inch below the mold's edge. Flatten the top with your palm as you did the other two bowls. Once you have made sure the base
and sides are even, you need to make a pedestal and cup in the center of the smallest bowl.
Step 3 - The Pedestal and Cup
This pedestal will hold the top piece that the tube of water will bubble out of. The pedestal should be as tall as the finished bowl
and almost as wide as the cup that will sit on top. This is to go in the smallest bowl that you have made. To form the pedestal, do
as you did for the medium sized bowl and take a handful of hypertufa mix and form a mound in the center of your smallest bowl
sort of shaping it like a mountain (slightly wider on the bottom than the top). I like to roll the mix in my hand so it is smooth and
nice and tight, then sit it in the center of the bowl and smooth it with your hands until you get the desired shape. To form the cup
that sits on top, roll some hypertufa mix in your hand to form a ball, and then begin to flatten it on the table. Once you have
reached the desired size, take your thumbs and begin to form the inside of the bowl. It doesn't need to be real deep, just enough
so the water has something to bubble in and over when the pump is turned on. The finished cup and pedestal should be a little
taller than the mold. How tall, is up to you, but I'd say no taller than an inch above the mold.
Step 4 – Pump Housing
I did not make my own pump housing (the instructor did), but I will
describe how I think it was made.
I am guessing that the mold for this was a piece of plastic corrugated
board taped together to form a cylinder shape, about the same diameter
as a small coffee can, approximately 4" in diameter and about 4" tall,
with another tube rolled up to make the center hole. The form was
likely packed tight with hypertufa and set aside for several hours to
partially cure, then it was removed from the mold and the legs were cut
out as the picture illustrates. I'm sure this can be made in other ways,
so do what works best for you. The pump needs to fit underneath this
piece and the middle bowl sits on top, so it's important that this piece
be level also. The hole at the top needs to be larger than the hose you
will be using and the leg openings need to be situated in such a way that
the cord of the pump comes out one side and the filter comes out the
other.
I did not make my own pump housing (the instructor did), but I will
describe how I think it was made.
I am guessing that the mold for this was a piece of plastic corrugated
board taped together to form a cylinder shape, about the same diameter
as a small coffee can, approximately 4" in diameter and about 4" tall,
with another tube rolled up to make the center hole. The form was
likely packed tight with hypertufa and set aside for several hours to
partially cure, then it was removed from the mold and the legs were cut
out as the picture illustrates. I'm sure this can be made in other ways,
so do what works best for you. The pump needs to fit underneath this
piece and the middle bowl sits on top, so it's important that this piece
be level also. The hole at the top needs to be larger than the hose you
will be using and the leg openings need to be situated in such a way that
the cord of the pump comes out one side and the filter comes out the
other.
| Pump Housing |
Step 5 - Curing and Finishing
Let all the pieces dry in a shady location, protected from rain for 48
hours before moving. If you are in a very low humidity area, cover the
bowls loosely with a plastic bag so the bowls don't dry out too quickly
and crack. You may find you need to mist them lightly a couple times
during the day if you are experiencing very hot temperatures, but mine
air dried naturally with no additional misting or covering.
After about 24 hours, you can use a metal file or sand paper to gently
shape the inside of the top of the cup, if you like. You can also use
sandpaper to smooth the inside of the bowls, but I left mine rough. Just
depends on how formal you want the fountain to look. You won't
really notice the inside of the bowls anyway once they are filled with
water.
Let all the pieces dry in a shady location, protected from rain for 48
hours before moving. If you are in a very low humidity area, cover the
bowls loosely with a plastic bag so the bowls don't dry out too quickly
and crack. You may find you need to mist them lightly a couple times
during the day if you are experiencing very hot temperatures, but mine
air dried naturally with no additional misting or covering.
After about 24 hours, you can use a metal file or sand paper to gently
shape the inside of the top of the cup, if you like. You can also use
sandpaper to smooth the inside of the bowls, but I left mine rough. Just
depends on how formal you want the fountain to look. You won't
really notice the inside of the bowls anyway once they are filled with
water.
Step 7 - Using Your Fountain
Now that you have your fountain assembled, fill the base full of water up to about an 1” below the top of the bowl. Now fill the
middle bowl so that the water just touches the bottom of the top bowl and then add a little water to the top bowl. Now plug in
your pump. Have a towel handy in case it comes out too fast, but if you have the right pump and pre-determined the setting, you
should be OK. You may find that you need to adjust the pump after it has been assembled. If so, you will have to take the
fountain apart in order to adjust the pump setting. That is why I have an hour listed for set-up as it can take you a few tries to get
the fountain working to your liking.
Step 8 - Fine-tuning your Fountain
The water should cascade over all sides of the top bowl and over the middle bowl into the bottom bowl without splashing too
much. If the splashing bothers you, you will need to turn the pump down slightly, or place it in an area where the splashing water
is not a problem. You really should have minimal splashing so as not to have to fill the fountain too often.
If adjusting the pump does not solve your splashing problem or if the water does not flow evenly along all sides of the bowls, your
bowls or pedestals may not be level or smooth. Don't worry, slight imperfections can be corrected by using a metal file and
sanding down the edges until they are level. You may also want to sand the edges slightly to give it more of a natural look, or just
to help the water flow over the edge of the bowls with less force. This should also help to reduce any splashing. Rinse your
bowls thoroughly after sanding so that the dust does not get into the water and clog your pump.
Step 9 - Maintenance
Your fountain will require little maintenance. You will need to add water from time to time. If the water feels slimy, empty the
fountain, take it apart and scrub the bowls with a stiff bristled brush. A cap full of bleach in your cleaning water may be needed if
you have heavy algae build-up. There are also products you can buy for fountains to help keep your water clean, just make sure
it is safe for wildlife if there is a chance an animal or even a child will drink from the fountain, but these chemicals really aren't
necessary.
If you live in an area that gets freezing temperatures, and your fountain is outside, you will need to drain and disassemble your
fountain and put it inside for the winter.
If your pump suddenly stops working, check your pump instructions for how to instructions on taking it apart and cleaning the
pump. If it still doesn't work, it's probably time for a new pump.
Step 10 - Safety Tips
Check your pump instructions for details, but I prefer to turn my pump off at night or anytime I am away from the fountain for
more than a couple of hours. I wouldn't want the fountain to go dry for some reason and burn out the pump, which could
potentially start a fire, plus there is no need to waste electricity if there is no one there to enjoy it. Always use an outdoor rated
extension cord, if needed, and properly grounded outlets. Consult an electrician if you have any other questions.
Always check to make sure your fountain is filled with water before turning it on. You will need to add water periodically to
account for evaporation and splashing.
I hope you found these instructions helpful and easy to follow. If I make another fountain, I will be sure to take pictures of each
step, but in the meantime, I hope the pictures I have provided will be helpful to you. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail
me and don't forget to visit some of the links I have provided to learn more about hypertufa.
A pdf of these instructions can be downloaded and printed here. There are no pictures with these instructions.
Now that you have your fountain assembled, fill the base full of water up to about an 1” below the top of the bowl. Now fill the
middle bowl so that the water just touches the bottom of the top bowl and then add a little water to the top bowl. Now plug in
your pump. Have a towel handy in case it comes out too fast, but if you have the right pump and pre-determined the setting, you
should be OK. You may find that you need to adjust the pump after it has been assembled. If so, you will have to take the
fountain apart in order to adjust the pump setting. That is why I have an hour listed for set-up as it can take you a few tries to get
the fountain working to your liking.
Step 8 - Fine-tuning your Fountain
The water should cascade over all sides of the top bowl and over the middle bowl into the bottom bowl without splashing too
much. If the splashing bothers you, you will need to turn the pump down slightly, or place it in an area where the splashing water
is not a problem. You really should have minimal splashing so as not to have to fill the fountain too often.
If adjusting the pump does not solve your splashing problem or if the water does not flow evenly along all sides of the bowls, your
bowls or pedestals may not be level or smooth. Don't worry, slight imperfections can be corrected by using a metal file and
sanding down the edges until they are level. You may also want to sand the edges slightly to give it more of a natural look, or just
to help the water flow over the edge of the bowls with less force. This should also help to reduce any splashing. Rinse your
bowls thoroughly after sanding so that the dust does not get into the water and clog your pump.
Step 9 - Maintenance
Your fountain will require little maintenance. You will need to add water from time to time. If the water feels slimy, empty the
fountain, take it apart and scrub the bowls with a stiff bristled brush. A cap full of bleach in your cleaning water may be needed if
you have heavy algae build-up. There are also products you can buy for fountains to help keep your water clean, just make sure
it is safe for wildlife if there is a chance an animal or even a child will drink from the fountain, but these chemicals really aren't
necessary.
If you live in an area that gets freezing temperatures, and your fountain is outside, you will need to drain and disassemble your
fountain and put it inside for the winter.
If your pump suddenly stops working, check your pump instructions for how to instructions on taking it apart and cleaning the
pump. If it still doesn't work, it's probably time for a new pump.
Step 10 - Safety Tips
Check your pump instructions for details, but I prefer to turn my pump off at night or anytime I am away from the fountain for
more than a couple of hours. I wouldn't want the fountain to go dry for some reason and burn out the pump, which could
potentially start a fire, plus there is no need to waste electricity if there is no one there to enjoy it. Always use an outdoor rated
extension cord, if needed, and properly grounded outlets. Consult an electrician if you have any other questions.
Always check to make sure your fountain is filled with water before turning it on. You will need to add water periodically to
account for evaporation and splashing.
I hope you found these instructions helpful and easy to follow. If I make another fountain, I will be sure to take pictures of each
step, but in the meantime, I hope the pictures I have provided will be helpful to you. If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail
me and don't forget to visit some of the links I have provided to learn more about hypertufa.
A pdf of these instructions can be downloaded and printed here. There are no pictures with these instructions.
| Bowls of Life Fountain |
| The information contained in this web site is strictly the opinion of the administrators and does not offer any warranties based on the information contained in these pages. We try to provide quality information, but we make no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy or completeness of the information contained in or linked to this web site. |
| Last Updated on March 6, 2010 |
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After 48 hours, you will begin to notice the mix lightening up in color. That is telling you that the mix is drying out. You can now
remove the molds from the bowl. Take off the duct tape and the bowls should come out pretty easily. If they don't or look like
they want to crack, then let them dry longer; don't force it, as it can still break apart pretty easily at this stage. If you notice a
seam where the molds come together, you can wet sand the area to make it less noticeable.
Once removed from the molds, let the bowls dry for another week in a shady area on a hard, flat level surface. At that point, you
can drill a hole in the center of each bowl. This hole should be the same size as the hose you are using to attach to the submersible
pump. The pump directions should tell you what diameter hose to use - it may also come with a piece of hose. If it doesn't, take
the pump with you to the store and try different size hoses until you find the right fit. You don't need much. The length of hose
depends on the height of the finished fountain. You can get these submersible pumps at pet stores, nurseries, home improvement
stores, hardware stores and possibly discount stores and pool and spa shops. They also may be called fountain pumps and if you
can find a pump that is a little more than 180 gph, that would be good too, you just don't need a real strong pump as you don't
want the water to splash out of the bowls. The hoses can be found in the pool/fountain section or even the refrigerator section of
the home improvement store as well as some pet stores. If you have trouble finding clear hose, I believe they make a black hose
as well. You are not going to see it, so it really makes no difference what color it is, only that it's flexible.
Once the bowls have cured for a week, you need to coat the inside of the largest bowl with a waterproofing agent. My instructor
used a Quikrete product called Hydraulic Cement. Follow the instructions when applying to the inside of the bowl. Let this cure
for several days, or however long it states on the product you used. Just make sure the product you use will dry the same color
as your fountain (light grey). This coating will prevent the bowl from sweating. The smaller bowls do not need this coating, only
the largest bowl.
Step 6 - Assembly
After everything is cured, sanded and sealed, it's time to assemble the whole thing. Rinse the bowls several times to make sure
there is no cement residue. I prefer to have my fountain indoors or on a covered porch or patio. Though I am sure the birds
would love the fountain, it would need cleaning often (which requires taking it apart) and the waterproofing agent may not be
completely safe for the animals.
Choose a location that is flat, level, water-resistant and that will support the weight of the fountain. It will be quite heavy when
fully assembled, so you won't be able to move it easily once it's put together. Put the pump in the bottom of the largest bowl and
sit the pump housing on top of the pump so that the cord comes out one side and the pump filter comes out the other. Make sure
the pump housing is sitting level in the bottom of the bowl.
Now place the tubing on the pump so that it comes out of the hole of the pump housing. Take the middle size bowl and slide it
down over the tubing so that the bowl sits on the pump housing and the tube comes out of the hole in the medium size bowl. Do
the same with the smallest bowl. The hose should be about a ½" below the cup at the top of the fountain. This is just so you don't
see the hose when it's running. An easy way to figure out what size hose you need is to just assemble the fountain and take a
marker and mark the hose at the top of the fountain, then remove the hose from the fountain and cut it a ½" shorter than where
you made the mark. I'm sorry I can't give you an exact length, but it will vary slightly depending on the molds you are using and
how high the pedestals are in each bowl.
To figure out how high you need to set the pump, put the pump in a large bowl of water with the hose attached. If it's a 180 gph
pump, set it to the highest setting and turn it on. The water should come out above the hose about 1-1/2" to 2". This will give you
a starter point for your pump setting and should be done before you actually assemble the fountain.
remove the molds from the bowl. Take off the duct tape and the bowls should come out pretty easily. If they don't or look like
they want to crack, then let them dry longer; don't force it, as it can still break apart pretty easily at this stage. If you notice a
seam where the molds come together, you can wet sand the area to make it less noticeable.
Once removed from the molds, let the bowls dry for another week in a shady area on a hard, flat level surface. At that point, you
can drill a hole in the center of each bowl. This hole should be the same size as the hose you are using to attach to the submersible
pump. The pump directions should tell you what diameter hose to use - it may also come with a piece of hose. If it doesn't, take
the pump with you to the store and try different size hoses until you find the right fit. You don't need much. The length of hose
depends on the height of the finished fountain. You can get these submersible pumps at pet stores, nurseries, home improvement
stores, hardware stores and possibly discount stores and pool and spa shops. They also may be called fountain pumps and if you
can find a pump that is a little more than 180 gph, that would be good too, you just don't need a real strong pump as you don't
want the water to splash out of the bowls. The hoses can be found in the pool/fountain section or even the refrigerator section of
the home improvement store as well as some pet stores. If you have trouble finding clear hose, I believe they make a black hose
as well. You are not going to see it, so it really makes no difference what color it is, only that it's flexible.
Once the bowls have cured for a week, you need to coat the inside of the largest bowl with a waterproofing agent. My instructor
used a Quikrete product called Hydraulic Cement. Follow the instructions when applying to the inside of the bowl. Let this cure
for several days, or however long it states on the product you used. Just make sure the product you use will dry the same color
as your fountain (light grey). This coating will prevent the bowl from sweating. The smaller bowls do not need this coating, only
the largest bowl.
Step 6 - Assembly
After everything is cured, sanded and sealed, it's time to assemble the whole thing. Rinse the bowls several times to make sure
there is no cement residue. I prefer to have my fountain indoors or on a covered porch or patio. Though I am sure the birds
would love the fountain, it would need cleaning often (which requires taking it apart) and the waterproofing agent may not be
completely safe for the animals.
Choose a location that is flat, level, water-resistant and that will support the weight of the fountain. It will be quite heavy when
fully assembled, so you won't be able to move it easily once it's put together. Put the pump in the bottom of the largest bowl and
sit the pump housing on top of the pump so that the cord comes out one side and the pump filter comes out the other. Make sure
the pump housing is sitting level in the bottom of the bowl.
Now place the tubing on the pump so that it comes out of the hole of the pump housing. Take the middle size bowl and slide it
down over the tubing so that the bowl sits on the pump housing and the tube comes out of the hole in the medium size bowl. Do
the same with the smallest bowl. The hose should be about a ½" below the cup at the top of the fountain. This is just so you don't
see the hose when it's running. An easy way to figure out what size hose you need is to just assemble the fountain and take a
marker and mark the hose at the top of the fountain, then remove the hose from the fountain and cut it a ½" shorter than where
you made the mark. I'm sorry I can't give you an exact length, but it will vary slightly depending on the molds you are using and
how high the pedestals are in each bowl.
To figure out how high you need to set the pump, put the pump in a large bowl of water with the hose attached. If it's a 180 gph
pump, set it to the highest setting and turn it on. The water should come out above the hose about 1-1/2" to 2". This will give you
a starter point for your pump setting and should be done before you actually assemble the fountain.
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