| In Spring 2008, we began the planning stages of a greenhouse made from old windows. I had been casually saving windows for a while and mentioned to Gary how it would be neat to turn them into something, maybe a greenhouse. He really didn't comment too much on the idea until one day I realized he had been bringing windows home without my knowledge. We talked about it and decided we had enough windows collected to start the design work. At that time, we had 21 windows and three doors to work with. There were several different sizes which made designing a little more challenging. I didn't want it to look all pieced together. I wanted it to look like it was meant to be put together. To the left is a preliminary design for the greenhouse (click on the image to see it in full size). The shaded areas are spaces we need to fill, either with windows, wood or some other material. I really wanted a cottage style greenhouse, so had already planned to use some sort of wood or siding on the bottom 42" of each side. This will be equal to the height of the wood on the entrance door which is in a Craftsman style. Gary found two solid glass doors that we will use on the back side of the greenhouse and they will open outward if needed. |
| The greenhouse right is approximately 12' x 8'. We will use a clear polycarbonate for the roof and the floor will be plywood, similar to a basic shed construction. Once the greenhouse is built, I will have lots of pathways to construct that will lead you in and around the yard and gardens. |
Update March 2008 - Here is a revised drawing using an 8' x 12' footprint. In doing so, the original wall height of 9' was just
too high, so we are reducing it to 7'. We have also determined that the height of the center of the roof will be 3' and will over hang
about 1' on either side. I have attached a new layout drawing below. Click on the drawing to see it in full size (drawing not to
scale).
too high, so we are reducing it to 7'. We have also determined that the height of the center of the roof will be 3' and will over hang
about 1' on either side. I have attached a new layout drawing below. Click on the drawing to see it in full size (drawing not to
scale).
| Greenhouse Project |
| Last Updated on March 6, 2010 |
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Update September 9, 2009
Gary was finally able to start the greenhouse on Labor Day weekend
of 2009.
In the photo to the left he was digging holes for the cement block that
were using to level the building. The holes were filled with gravel and
patio base and packed in and leveled. You will notice that some stones
are flat and some are cement blocks. We are just using what we have
on hand. You won't see them anyway, so there is no need to buy
matching blocks or matching filler. We got lucky when we ran low on
gravel and found some patio base marked down at Lowes because the
bags were broken.
Gary was finally able to start the greenhouse on Labor Day weekend
of 2009.
In the photo to the left he was digging holes for the cement block that
were using to level the building. The holes were filled with gravel and
patio base and packed in and leveled. You will notice that some stones
are flat and some are cement blocks. We are just using what we have
on hand. You won't see them anyway, so there is no need to buy
matching blocks or matching filler. We got lucky when we ran low on
gravel and found some patio base marked down at Lowes because the
bags were broken.
Update September 14, 2009
Gary finished the floor. The studs are 16" on
center. A little closer than normal to add strength
since the wall studs will be spaced a little
unconventionally. We used a combination of 4x4s
and 2x4s because that is what we had on hand.
To the right is a close-up of one of the corners.
Gary used a scrap piece of 4x4 to make a corner
support. You can also see some chicken wire in this
photo. We've had problems with skunks,
woodchucks and rabbits digging under our sheds,
so we are preventing this problem ahead of time by
putting down some chicken wire all around the
building. The chicken wire has been stapled to the
studs on the inside for extra protection. Since these
types of critters like to dig right up against the
foundation of a building, they won't be able to since
it's surrounded by the chicken wire. Even if they
decide to back up and try to dig some more, they
can't because the chicken wire goes out at least 14"
on all sides.
Gary finished the floor. The studs are 16" on
center. A little closer than normal to add strength
since the wall studs will be spaced a little
unconventionally. We used a combination of 4x4s
and 2x4s because that is what we had on hand.
To the right is a close-up of one of the corners.
Gary used a scrap piece of 4x4 to make a corner
support. You can also see some chicken wire in this
photo. We've had problems with skunks,
woodchucks and rabbits digging under our sheds,
so we are preventing this problem ahead of time by
putting down some chicken wire all around the
building. The chicken wire has been stapled to the
studs on the inside for extra protection. Since these
types of critters like to dig right up against the
foundation of a building, they won't be able to since
it's surrounded by the chicken wire. Even if they
decide to back up and try to dig some more, they
can't because the chicken wire goes out at least 14"
on all sides.
Update - October 2, 2009 - To the right is a close-up of the hardware
we used for the rafters.
For the most part, the majority of this hardware was salvaged from job
sites (you'd be amazed at what gets thrown away), and gotten for next to
nothing on clearance at a building supply store. When companies stop
carrying one brand and start selling another, they mark down many items
for pennies on the dollar. Sometimes they even throw them out or give
them to their best customers. It helps to have a contact at a store like this.
Below are photos of the rafters actually going up.
we used for the rafters.
For the most part, the majority of this hardware was salvaged from job
sites (you'd be amazed at what gets thrown away), and gotten for next to
nothing on clearance at a building supply store. When companies stop
carrying one brand and start selling another, they mark down many items
for pennies on the dollar. Sometimes they even throw them out or give
them to their best customers. It helps to have a contact at a store like this.
Below are photos of the rafters actually going up.
This turtle birdbath is
currently for sale in
our Etsy shop.
currently for sale in
our Etsy shop.
Update September 18, 2009
The wall studs are up and we are ready to frame with windows and put up the rafters. The studs are double studs meaning two
2x4s have been attached together at each point to give added strength. The studs are the same distance apart as the windows we
are using. The bottom half of the greenhouse will be covered with cedar clap board and insulated and the windows will be on the
top half. Gary said that the pieces all fit together like a glove, which I guess is a compliment to me since I cut them all myself. :)
The wall studs are up and we are ready to frame with windows and put up the rafters. The studs are double studs meaning two
2x4s have been attached together at each point to give added strength. The studs are the same distance apart as the windows we
are using. The bottom half of the greenhouse will be covered with cedar clap board and insulated and the windows will be on the
top half. Gary said that the pieces all fit together like a glove, which I guess is a compliment to me since I cut them all myself. :)
We finished the floor with three sheets of 4x8
treated plywood.
The plywood was screwed down on each corner
and all down the center of the plywood attaching it
to all the studs. There is no need to screw down the
outside of the plywood any more than that since the
sill plate will be going around the outside, further
securing the plywood to the floor studs.
treated plywood.
The plywood was screwed down on each corner
and all down the center of the plywood attaching it
to all the studs. There is no need to screw down the
outside of the plywood any more than that since the
sill plate will be going around the outside, further
securing the plywood to the floor studs.
To help strengthen the frame we screwed together two 2x4s and attached them across the center of the greenhouse at the same
point as the wall studs. We connected those with a shorter length of board to create an "H" inside the frame. Remember, since we
are using old windows for the walls, the framing is a little unconventional, so we need to compensate in other areas to make sure
the structure is sturdy.
We attached them with three metal braces (one on each side and bottom) and used a mending plate on the top to prevent this
"beam" from becoming separated from the wall stud (sorry, I couldn't get a picture of that part).
point as the wall studs. We connected those with a shorter length of board to create an "H" inside the frame. Remember, since we
are using old windows for the walls, the framing is a little unconventional, so we need to compensate in other areas to make sure
the structure is sturdy.
We attached them with three metal braces (one on each side and bottom) and used a mending plate on the top to prevent this
"beam" from becoming separated from the wall stud (sorry, I couldn't get a picture of that part).
The next three photos show the greenhouse with the
plywood on the bottom and the front door in place. Most
of the plywood was full sheets, but since I didn't want to
wast anything, there is one section to the left of the front
door that is pieced together. It won't be seen anyway since
there will be cedar clap board covering the plywood.
plywood on the bottom and the front door in place. Most
of the plywood was full sheets, but since I didn't want to
wast anything, there is one section to the left of the front
door that is pieced together. It won't be seen anyway since
there will be cedar clap board covering the plywood.
I couldn't get a good picture of the additional bracing Gary added, but if
you look to the right of this picture, you will see a wooden brace going
from one of the new center supports diagonally up to the top of the rafter.
There is one on each side of the greenhouse. This support was
constructed by screwing together three 2x4s. At the top of the support,
one 2x4 is attached to either side of the rafter. The center piece is cut
shorter so as not to interfere with attaching the support to the rafter beam.
This support is designed to prevent the building from twisting in heavy
winds.
you look to the right of this picture, you will see a wooden brace going
from one of the new center supports diagonally up to the top of the rafter.
There is one on each side of the greenhouse. This support was
constructed by screwing together three 2x4s. At the top of the support,
one 2x4 is attached to either side of the rafter. The center piece is cut
shorter so as not to interfere with attaching the support to the rafter beam.
This support is designed to prevent the building from twisting in heavy
winds.
This photo shows the inside of the bracing and hopefully
you can see the "H" that was created by screwing together
two 2x4s and attaching them to the wall studs.
To put up the rafters, Gary stood on a ladder while I slid
each board up to him. He attached the top of each rafter to
the main board with a 4" screw so that it would stay in
place while he hammers in each nail. Each brace requires
several nails on each side. Once the rafters are all
hammered in place, the 4" screws are removed and the end
bracing can be removed (The end bracing are the vertical
pieces of lumber that were holding up the main beam, which
are easily seen in the photo above).
you can see the "H" that was created by screwing together
two 2x4s and attaching them to the wall studs.
To put up the rafters, Gary stood on a ladder while I slid
each board up to him. He attached the top of each rafter to
the main board with a 4" screw so that it would stay in
place while he hammers in each nail. Each brace requires
several nails on each side. Once the rafters are all
hammered in place, the 4" screws are removed and the end
bracing can be removed (The end bracing are the vertical
pieces of lumber that were holding up the main beam, which
are easily seen in the photo above).
Update October 12, 2009 - Here's a picture of my wonderful
husband up on the roof putting in the polycarbonate roof panels.
These panels are pretty easy to work with, but you have no choice
but to get up there as the panels need to be screwed down in
many places. I was a nervous wreck the whole time he was up
there.
brace the walls on three sides to make it more stable when
climbing up there. Traditionally the walls should go up first, but I
knew the roof would take a long time and since we are fighting
mother nature with weather, I wanted to do the roof first before
putting up the walls. It took about 4 hours to complete the roof
over a two day period.
husband up on the roof putting in the polycarbonate roof panels.
These panels are pretty easy to work with, but you have no choice
but to get up there as the panels need to be screwed down in
many places. I was a nervous wreck the whole time he was up
there.
brace the walls on three sides to make it more stable when
climbing up there. Traditionally the walls should go up first, but I
knew the roof would take a long time and since we are fighting
mother nature with weather, I wanted to do the roof first before
putting up the walls. It took about 4 hours to complete the roof
over a two day period.
This Craftsman style door was given to us by a friend that I
met on a gardening forum. She lives about an hour east of
us, and when she heard we were building a greenhouse, she
generously offered us this door and some windows to help
complete the project.
It took about 2 hours to get this door hung. We still need to
do a little shimming and put in the top of the door frame, but
the hard part is done. Gary planed down the sides and
bottom of the door so it would fit a little better and we'll
need to sand down the sharp edges created by the planer
and prime and paint the exposed wood before winter.
met on a gardening forum. She lives about an hour east of
us, and when she heard we were building a greenhouse, she
generously offered us this door and some windows to help
complete the project.
It took about 2 hours to get this door hung. We still need to
do a little shimming and put in the top of the door frame, but
the hard part is done. Gary planed down the sides and
bottom of the door so it would fit a little better and we'll
need to sand down the sharp edges created by the planer
and prime and paint the exposed wood before winter.
Update October 20, 2009 - All the doors and windows are installed except for the windows on the peak. We had to make
some adjustments along the way as the plan on paper didn't exactly transfer to real life 100%. What plan ever does?
Also, to make things go a little faster, we decided to not make the windows on the side open. It's hard to tell by the photo, but the
three large windows on each side are all attached together to form one large window. There is a piece of wood in between each
window that connects to a frame of wood that surrounds all three windows. That frame is screwed into the wall studs. It would
have made more sense to have two windows attached and then have the middle one push out, but I did not take that into
consideration when I designed it initially. Once the framework was built, there was no way to change that. Gary trimmed off each
window so that he would have a nice surface to attach the frame to, but that didn't make enough room to have all three windows
framed separately. But it's OK because we have a functioning front door and back door that can be opened for extra ventilation
and there will be a window on either end of the peak that will have automatic openers attached to vent any hot air.
some adjustments along the way as the plan on paper didn't exactly transfer to real life 100%. What plan ever does?
Also, to make things go a little faster, we decided to not make the windows on the side open. It's hard to tell by the photo, but the
three large windows on each side are all attached together to form one large window. There is a piece of wood in between each
window that connects to a frame of wood that surrounds all three windows. That frame is screwed into the wall studs. It would
have made more sense to have two windows attached and then have the middle one push out, but I did not take that into
consideration when I designed it initially. Once the framework was built, there was no way to change that. Gary trimmed off each
window so that he would have a nice surface to attach the frame to, but that didn't make enough room to have all three windows
framed separately. But it's OK because we have a functioning front door and back door that can be opened for extra ventilation
and there will be a window on either end of the peak that will have automatic openers attached to vent any hot air.
The windows on either side of the front door are actually turned
the wrong way so they would fit in the space better. Now
looking at all the photos, it would have been more visually
appealing if we had put a piece of wood below the windows
rather than above the windows. The windows are not the same
height as the windows on the side, but the piece of wood on the
bottom would give the illusion that they were. We correct this
issue in a later update.
When installing the double door on the back, we had originally
planned on having both doors open wide to allow access for my
garden carts, but the single doors are actually large enough for
that already, so we decided to make one door fixed so that
there could be more storage space, which is more important to
me.
the wrong way so they would fit in the space better. Now
looking at all the photos, it would have been more visually
appealing if we had put a piece of wood below the windows
rather than above the windows. The windows are not the same
height as the windows on the side, but the piece of wood on the
bottom would give the illusion that they were. We correct this
issue in a later update.
When installing the double door on the back, we had originally
planned on having both doors open wide to allow access for my
garden carts, but the single doors are actually large enough for
that already, so we decided to make one door fixed so that
there could be more storage space, which is more important to
me.
Update October 23, 2009 - The first thing we did today was
fix those two windows on the front side that were bugging me
so much. I think they look better. I know they still aren't the
same height as the windows on the sides, but it's much less
noticeable than before, so I'm happy.
fix those two windows on the front side that were bugging me
so much. I think they look better. I know they still aren't the
same height as the windows on the sides, but it's much less
noticeable than before, so I'm happy.
You can also see by the above photo that the peak has been
framed for the window and for the plywood that will surround
the window.
framed for the window and for the plywood that will surround
the window.
We had originally thought to fill in this area with the
polycarbonate roof panels also, so it would be clear, but that
would have been very difficult to pull off and I think this will
look better anyway. We will cover it with the same siding that
will be down below.
polycarbonate roof panels also, so it would be clear, but that
would have been very difficult to pull off and I think this will
look better anyway. We will cover it with the same siding that
will be down below.
Gary did the same to the back side with the double doors and
we decided to fill in the areas on either side of the door with
plywood also. Just easier and faster right now. Maybe in the
future I will hang some mosaic panels there instead.
Then we began working on the soffit. Again, we are sticking
with the plywood as it might provide a little shade in the
summer, plus it's just plain easier.
There will be a trim piece all along the soffit on the left side so
there should be no way any bugs can get up in there. I can't
even imagine the amount of caulking we are going to have to do,
which is why I bought a caulk gun for Gary's cordless drill.
we decided to fill in the areas on either side of the door with
plywood also. Just easier and faster right now. Maybe in the
future I will hang some mosaic panels there instead.
Then we began working on the soffit. Again, we are sticking
with the plywood as it might provide a little shade in the
summer, plus it's just plain easier.
There will be a trim piece all along the soffit on the left side so
there should be no way any bugs can get up in there. I can't
even imagine the amount of caulking we are going to have to do,
which is why I bought a caulk gun for Gary's cordless drill.
Update November 3, 2009 - Trim work is the word for this week. Tedious,
but necessary. Trim goes all along any place where there is a seam and frames
out the clap board siding. I'll just post one picture here, but more pictures can
be found on the blog.
but necessary. Trim goes all along any place where there is a seam and frames
out the clap board siding. I'll just post one picture here, but more pictures can
be found on the blog.
Update November 10, 2009 - Siding has
been installed.
been installed.
We've also installed two counters. One is 24" deep x 8' long (photo above right) and the other on the opposite wall is 18" deep x
8' long. Both counters are 40" tall, which is taller than a normal counter top. I'm tall and I didn't want to have to stoop to work
on projects, and it's still a good height to make my hypertufa or pot up plants without being too high.
8' long. Both counters are 40" tall, which is taller than a normal counter top. I'm tall and I didn't want to have to stoop to work
on projects, and it's still a good height to make my hypertufa or pot up plants without being too high.
Update November 23, 2009 - Gary put wire shelving under the counters. This wire shelving are cut offs or damaged pieces that
were being thrown away by contractors. Since we didn't have the brackets that came with the shelving, Gary just made his own
with scrap 2x4s. I wanted to be able to remove the shelves easily, so he attached slats to the wooden brackets to keep the
shelves from sliding around.
were being thrown away by contractors. Since we didn't have the brackets that came with the shelving, Gary just made his own
with scrap 2x4s. I wanted to be able to remove the shelves easily, so he attached slats to the wooden brackets to keep the
shelves from sliding around.
There's a piece of closet rod below each shelf that is above each counter. This will be used to hang potted plants or craft projects
and be used to store empty pots in the winter.
If you'd like to see extra photos of the greenhouse throughout the build, just visit the blog here.
We did not have time to paint or seal the greenhouse before winter set in, so that will be done in the spring. Look for updates
then.
and be used to store empty pots in the winter.
If you'd like to see extra photos of the greenhouse throughout the build, just visit the blog here.
We did not have time to paint or seal the greenhouse before winter set in, so that will be done in the spring. Look for updates
then.