In the first issue of Pest Busters, we talked about how you can solve a
lot of problems by improving your soil with organic matter and by
proper watering and fertilizer techniques. If you missed it, check out
the Introduction on the previous page of this site.
So, you've done all that and now you think you have aphids. First,
make sure you identify them as definitely being aphids. Don't know
what they look like? Check out this page full of aphid pictures. Some
aphids can be light green or yellow and others can be brown, black or
even red. They are so tiny that it is sometimes hard to tell you even
have them until you see a whole stream of them lined up on the stems
of the plant. Aphids basically suck the juices out of a plant or they can
even inject toxins into the plant which cause distorted growths and
other problems. Aphids rarely kill a healthy plant, but their numbers
do need to be monitored so that they don't get out of control. They
will leave a sticky substance called "honeydew" on the plant which
lot of problems by improving your soil with organic matter and by
proper watering and fertilizer techniques. If you missed it, check out
the Introduction on the previous page of this site.
So, you've done all that and now you think you have aphids. First,
make sure you identify them as definitely being aphids. Don't know
what they look like? Check out this page full of aphid pictures. Some
aphids can be light green or yellow and others can be brown, black or
even red. They are so tiny that it is sometimes hard to tell you even
have them until you see a whole stream of them lined up on the stems
of the plant. Aphids basically suck the juices out of a plant or they can
even inject toxins into the plant which cause distorted growths and
other problems. Aphids rarely kill a healthy plant, but their numbers
do need to be monitored so that they don't get out of control. They
will leave a sticky substance called "honeydew" on the plant which
| Last Updated on March 6, 2010 |
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| Pest Busters - Aphids |
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| The information contained in this web site is strictly the opinion of the administrators and does not offer any warranties based on the information contained in these pages. We try to provide quality information, but we make no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy or completeness of the information contained in or linked to this web site. |
Once you have correctly identified the critters as aphids, you can then begin your attack on them. The best control is to use natural
predators to control them. Lady beetles, parasitic wasps, lacewings, and syrphid flies are your best bet. If you have stopped using
chemical pesticides and fertilizers on your gardens, you should have a good supply of these good guys in your yard and you will
need to do nothing, but in case you don't lady beetles can be purchased online or at a good nursery.
Aphids are susceptible to fungal diseases when it is hot and humid, so take comfort in the fact that aphid season is mainly in the
spring and early summer in most areas. Start checking your plants once or twice a week in early spring when growth is rapid. If
you only see a few on a stem or two, blast them with a sharp spray of water from your garden hose. I like to wear a rubber glove
and wipe down the stems as I am spraying them with water. Check under leaves as they love to hide. You want to pay special
attention if you see aphids on young seedlings as the plants are not strong enough to withstand the aphids.
High levels of nitrogen fertilizer seem to help the aphids to breed, so that is all the more reason to only fertilize with organic slow
release fertilizers or compost.
If you feel you must you a pesticide, use the least offensive method first and try not to use it near any beneficial bugs, such as
wasps or bees (our most prized pollinators). Without the beneficial insects, the bad insects would destroy all our plants.
The least offensive (besides spraying with water), would be a homemade insecticidal soap. The recipe is simple.
1 tablespoons of soap
1 quart of warm water
Make sure that you are using a soap and not a detergent. Some good
choices would be Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Soap, Fels Naptha or
using a distilled water or water that has been filtered as this will allow
the soap to stick to the surface better. If you are using one of the bar
soaps listed, shave off what you need and dissolve in warm water. The
soap mixture must come in contact with the insects in order to work, so
don't spray the whole plant down. Some plants can be sensitive to this
mixture, so test it on a leaf first, wait 24 hours and then apply it to the
problem areas if your plant if it doesn’t seem to be adversely affected
by the spray. It is also best applied on a cloudy day or very early
morning when the plant surface will not be "burnt" by the sun. Apply
once a week, as needed, no more. And again, I cannot stress this
choices would be Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Soap, Fels Naptha or
using a distilled water or water that has been filtered as this will allow
the soap to stick to the surface better. If you are using one of the bar
soaps listed, shave off what you need and dissolve in warm water. The
soap mixture must come in contact with the insects in order to work, so
don't spray the whole plant down. Some plants can be sensitive to this
mixture, so test it on a leaf first, wait 24 hours and then apply it to the
problem areas if your plant if it doesn’t seem to be adversely affected
by the spray. It is also best applied on a cloudy day or very early
morning when the plant surface will not be "burnt" by the sun. Apply
once a week, as needed, no more. And again, I cannot stress this
Neem Oil is also a good alternative if for some reason the insecticidal soap is not working. But to be honest, the soap mixture
works the best for me on most pests. I mix Dr. Bronner's with water as that is what I have on hand and it seems to work the best
anyway.
Find more gardening tips here
